Hear from other pet owners ” I had a wonderful doggie put down in my lap. I was hanging on until the Vet said “Shes in heaven now”. No matter what you do, it’s a terrible experience. “

Jim Schenning knew he was going to lose it, and he didn’t want to lose it in public.

So when the dreaded day came to end the suffering of his beloved Emma, an arthritis-stricken, 15-year-old Jack Russell terrier, Schenning didn’t go to his veterinarian’s office. Instead, he ended up cross-legged on the floor of his spare bedroom, crying quietly as Emma looked up from his lap. After a few minutes, he nodded to Julie Rabinowitz, a veterinarian he had never met before she arrived at his house a half-hour earlier. She leaned forward with a syringe. A little dog’s fatal dose of pentobarbital.
“There was no whimper. Her eyes just slowly closed,” Schenning recalled. “Dr. Julie waited two or three minutes and checked her heartbeat. She said in a quiet voice, ‘Jim, she’s gone. I’m going to let myself out now.’ ”

The gentle death scene that recently unfolded at Schenning’s house near Catonsville, Md., was part of a growing at-home pet euthanasia movement that is beginning to relocate one of pet ownership’s most painful rituals, the final, one-way trip to the vet’s office.

“It really made a terrible situation much better,” said Wendy Bowlds of Gainesville, Va., who in May had her elderly mutt, Niki, put down in her favorite spot, her dog bed in the kitchen. “There’s nothing so awful as leaving the vet’s office with nothing but the empty leash.”
Like a growing number of vets in the region, Rabinowitz, who is based in Baltimore, decided a few years ago to build her practice on end-of-life house calls for those who want more for their pets’ last moments than a frightened scrabble on a cold steel exam table.

At $200 for a sedative followed by the killing barbiturate, she charges more than twice what most vets do for an office euthanasia. But she has found no shortage of owners willing to pay the premium.

“Going to the vet was always stressful,” Schenning said. “I didn’t want her last day on this Earth to be, ‘Oh, no, we’re going into that white building.’ ”

And if Emma’s last few minutes with her owner would have been traumatic, he knew his own first minutes without her would be just as bad.

“I would not be able to bear walking through the lobby sobbing with my deceased dog in my arms past some mother and child,” said Schenning, 47, an unemployed bank investigator. “I just envisioned, ‘Mommy what’s wrong with that man?’  ”

Back in the day, of course, it was common for family animals to die at home, whether from natural causes, a shot from the family rifle or a needle from the bag of a vet who routinely traveled from house to house and farm to farm. But the rise of clinic-based animal care meant that the most common scene of a pet’s demise shifted to an office setting.

By Steve Hendrix http://www.washingtonpost.com

We think we know what’s best for our pets, but the truth is that sometimes we can be misinformed. When it comes to aging, for example, there are a number of misconceptions that pet owners sometimes believe.
Here are three “facts” you may believe about aging in dogs… and why they’re wrong.
1. One year in dog years is equal to 7 human years. This formula was developed as a simple way to gauge a dog’s stage of life. However, it is much too simple to accurately reflect a dog’s age. This formula is also misleading because it does not take into account the size or breed of the dog. Larger dogs tend to age quicker and have shorter life spans than smaller dogs.

2. It’s easy to tell when your dog is getting old. This statement goes hand in hand with the “fact” that sick dogs show that they’re sick. As with many animals, there is a large disadvantage to displaying symptoms of sickness or weakness in the wild. It is simply not advantageous for dogs to show that they’re sick. As a result, you don’t always realize that your dog is sick or getting old until they are at an advanced stage of the process.

3. Slowing down is a natural part of a dog’s aging process and there’s nothing I can do about it. Many dog owners assume that as their dogs age, they will experience mobility loss and difficulty getting up and moving around. And because they truly believe that their dogs are simply undergoing natural changes, they will also assume that they can’t do anything to help their dogs. Once again, this statement is false. Many times loss of mobility is a sign that your dog is experiencing age related problems like arthritis, and there are many things you can do to help.

Now that you understand the truth behind these myths, you can do something with your knowledge. Your dog’s age in years is just a number. Many older dogs can continue to have an excellent quality of life, with some help from you.
What can you do?

While the answer to this question may seem like an obvious “truth,” research shows that it’s not necessarily the hair that causes allergic reactions.

Dog hair is not an allergen.  Dogs secrete fluids and shed dander that contains the allergens.  Dander is the microscopic particles of your dog’s skin, fur and hair.  These particles stick to walls, clothing and other surfaces.  They collect each day and stay actively suspended in the air for periods of time, sometimes for several months.  For those with sensitive immune systems, the result is often an allergic reaction with sneezing, stuffy nose and inflamed eyes.

Despite some of us having to deal with these symptoms, most dog lovers don’t plan on parting with their canine friends anytime soon.  And besides, it still wouldn’t prevent us from coming into contact with pet dander.  Do you know that studies have found cat and dog allergens present in 99.9% of homes including homes that have never had pets? Amazing!

Does your dog have mobility issues? Does he lag behind you during walks? Or does he take longer getting up or down? Maybe he’s just less playful or active in general?
Having dogs with joint or mobility issues can be challenging. It’s already difficult for them to do normal everyday activities that require movement, so it can be an even bigger challenge motivating them to stay active and healthy. If you’re wondering how you can exercise your dog with mobility issues, here are some things you can do:
1. Incorporate a routine of daily exercise into your dog’s schedule – It can be very easy for a dog with mobility issues to fall into a sedentary lifestyle. Keeping your dog active every day can help improve his overall health and stamina.

2. Get some tug toys – If running and jumping are too much for your dog to handle, tug toys are a great way to provide exercise with less physical impact. Working the muscles your dog uses to pull and tug can still be great exercise.

3. Do you have stairs at home? – If your dog can handle it, throw some tennis balls down the stairs for him to run after. This is a simple exercise that can be done at home. Be sure to reward him with a treat after he fetches! If he has mobility problems that won’t allow him to do this don’t worry. Simple walks can strengthen muscles.

1. Brush.

 Our house pets need brushing to prevent large amounts of hair from accumulating in the coat. It not only decreases the amount of hair on your clothes and furniture, it also stimulates the blood supply to your dog’s skin. Once old hair has been removed, a new hair can form. Brushing should be done on a regular basis. About 10 minutes a day should do the trick.

2. Vacuum.

Vacuum your house and car. Use a good quality vacuum that sucks up pet hair. If you have pets – especially multiple dogs – daily vacuuming is ideal. This includes furniture where pets frequently sleep or rest.

3. Wash.

Weekly washing of bedding can help get rid of pet hair. Wash your dog’s bedding as well as yours, if he sleeps on your bed. Do this at least once a week or more.

4. Keep your closet door closed.

Don’t allow your pets into the area where you keep your clothes. This won’t prevent hair from getting on your clothes but it will help.

5. Use a tape roller.

Tape rollers are a great way to pick up hair on your clothes. Keep one by the door and one in your glove box. This is great for getting hair off your clothes at the last minute.

6.  Bathe.

Bathing your dog helps get rid of loose dead hair, while it stimulates circulation to the skin and helps your dog smell great.  We found a great dog-washing tool called Rapid Bath that lets you easily wash your dog in 5 minutes or less.  This power washing system really helps get rid of dead hair to reduce shedding in your house and on your clothes.

The ASPCA wishes to extend our deepest condolences to those experiencing or anticipating the loss of a beloved pet. We understand that this is a very tough time for the whole family. Please know that the ASPCA is here for you should you need assistance working through your grief.

If your pet is under the care of a veterinarian at the time of his or her passing, the vet can guide you through the next steps. However, New Yorkers who do not have a relationship with a veterinarian often ask what they should do when a pet dies at home. Living in New York City, you are fortunate to have a wide range of options. Whether you want simply for the body to be removed from your home, or you wish to permanently memorialize your pet in some special way, the choice is yours.

 Immediate Concerns
Depending on your decision, you may have to keep the body in your home for a short period of time, particularly if the death has occurred at night. A well-cooled body can be held for up to 24 hours, but as this is difficult to maintain in a home, the sooner it can be taken somewhere else, the better.

•Placing the wrapped animal in a refrigerator or freezer is recommended, with one exception—if you plan to have a necropsy performed to determine cause of death, the body should not be frozen (refrigeration is still okay). It is essential that you contact a veterinarian as soon as possible if you would like a necropsy.
 
•If the animal is too big to be put into a refrigerator or freezer, the body should be placed on a cement floor or concrete slab—a cool, concrete floor is the best way to draw heat away from the carcass. Do not cover or wrap the body in this instance. Doing so will trap in heat and not allow the body temperature to cool..
 
•As a last resort, if neither refrigeration nor concrete floors are options, you may keep the body in the coldest area of your home, out of the sun, packed with bags of ice. In this case, the body should be placed in a plastic bag to prevent it from getting wet.
The body will not decompose immediately, so there is no need to worry about odor. Also, contrary to common belief, other pets in the household will not be traumatized by seeing the body.

By http://www.aspca.org/

Dog lovers commonly ask me this question: “My dog didn’t eat today – should I worry?”
Today I’d like to answer that question.

In nature, many dogs eat when they get a meal – often a “kill” – which could be every day or every few days. We find that domestic dogs will often eat every other day – that is very common, particularly in larger breed dogs.

We find some breeds and dogs are even less consistent in their eating patterns as the summer approaches and the temperature gets warmer.

The question is, should you WORRY if your dog won’t eat.

The answer is – it depends.

If your dog doesn’t want to eat one meal but is otherwise drinking, acting playful, and having normal bowel movements and urination with no vomiting, then I probably would not worry. If your dog is lethargic, if his gums are pale, if he seems weak, is vomiting and/or has diarrhea, then I would worry. See your veterinarian.

By Dr Jon

Dental and oral problems are important to learn, to prevent and to cure. Dogs may not live to the fullest if there’s something that bothers on their mouth. Mouth and teeth diseases will also keep the dog owner from getting too close because of unpleasant odor. Proper hygiene and oral care is important, and it ensures our dog is healthy.

 
Tartar Build Up. The most common form of canine dental disease is tartar buildup. This causes irritation of the gums around the base of the teeth (gingivitis), resulting in exposure of the roots. Ultimately, this leads to infection and tooth loss. Infection will accumulate in the mouth, resulting in gingivitis, tonsillitis, and pharyngitis (sore throat). Infection within the mouth will be picked up by the blood stream and carried to other parts of the body. Kidney infections, as well as infections involving the heart valves, frequently begin in the mouth. One of the main factors determining the amount of tartar buildup is the individual chemistry in the mouth. Some dogs need yearly cleanings; other dogs need a cleaning only once every few years.

Bad Breath and Halitosis. Dog bad breath is a common problem that makes unpleasant situation for dog owners. Bad breath could keep from enjoyable playing and getting close with dogs which upsetting for the dog too. Dog halitosis bad breathe is a particularly foul and offensive odor coming from dog’s mouth. While it’s unpleasant, dog bad breath can also be a sign of a serious health problem like infection or any internal health issues that releases the foul odor. Furthermore symptoms like facial swelling, pawing at the mouth, sneezing, and nasal discharge can all be signs of mouth disorders. However, even if you only observe the foul odor, it’s still important to have your dog examined by a veterinarian so that the cause of your pet’s halitosis can be identified and treated, preventing continuation of the unpleasant odor as well as protecting your furry friend’s health and happiness.

Periodontitis or Periodontal Disease. Periodontitis is the inflammation of the structures that support teeth, the gum tissue, periodontal ligament, alveolus (small cavity) and cementum (bonelike connective tissue covering the root of a tooth and assisting in tooth support). It is one of the most common infectious diseases in the world in dogs and is caused by bacteria that make up plaque. ‘Periodontal’ comes from two Greek words that mean ‘around the tooth.’ Periodontal disease is a series of changes that are associated with the inflammation and loss of the deep supporting structures of teeth. Periodontal disease is inflammation of some or all of the tooth’s support structures (gingiva, cementum, periodontal ligament, and alveolar bone). When compared to gingivitis, periodontitis indicates bone loss. Periodontal disease is caused by bacteria. Initially a pellicle forms on the clean tooth. This pellicle attracts aerobic gram positive bacteria (mostly actinomyces and strepococci). Soon more bacteria adhere forming plaque. With in days the plaque thickens, underlying bacteria run out of oxygen and anaerobic motile rods and spirochetes begin to populate the sub gingival area. Endotoxins released by the anaerobic bacteria cause tissue destruction and bone loss. Small breed and brachycephalic dogs are at greater risk of periodontal disease because their teeth are often crowded together. This results in an increased accumulation of plaque because the normal cleansing mechanisms are hindered. If gingivitis is left untreated, it will progress to periodontal disease which is irreversible. Periodontal Therapy is one of the treatment that controls plaque.

Mouth Infections and Stomatitis. Infection or inflammation in the mouth – stomatitis – can be caused by cuts, burns, foreign bodies stuck in the mouth, and diseases of the gums and the structures that support the teeth (periodontal disease). Metabolic diseases such as kidney failure can also cause painful stomatitis. Stick are common and potentially serious, especially those in the back of the mouth. To treat stomatitis, the cause is addressed: physical injuries are treated, foreign objects are removed, dental conditions are corrected , and any underlying metabolic disorder are controlled to prevent recurrence. Secondary bacterial infection is common, so appropriate antibiotics are almost always used.

Foreign bodies in the mouth and throat. Dogs love to chew sticks, stones, bones and other hard materials but also potentially dangerous: sticks can cause damage to the mouth and can also crack teeth, especially molars. This may lead to tooth-pulp exposure and infection. Sticks can also lodge in the back of the throat, too far for easy removal with a spoon handle. A dog with something in its throat gags, paws anxiously at its mouth, and may drool or vomit. A foreign body in the throat may cause swelling that interferes with breathing. If the object blocks the voice box, the dog chokes and faints. Treat the dog immediately for choking. For severe cases, surgery is needed. Always supervise what the dogs chew, or rather give them balls and other chewing toys instead of sticks and other not safe to chew materials.

Dog Mouth Tumors. Tumors are uncommon but can occur on the gums, tongue or roof of mouth, or in the salivary glands. When possible they are surgically removed, followed by radiation therapy or chemotherapy.

Dog Oral Examination. The annual physical exam must include an oral exam to recognize problems with teeth, periodontal disease, and other oral diseases. The comprehensive oral exam begins by observing the face, recognizing that there are normal breed variations but carefully observing for abnormalities.

Diet and Chewing Behavior. Studies show that hard kibbles are slightly better than canned foods at keeping plaque from accumulating on the teeth. Dogs that chew on various toys or edible dental chews may remove some of the plaque build-up.

Home Care. The owner plays an important role in the oral health care for their companion animals. We consider the pet owner and the family veterinarian as key members of our dental health care team. Out Comprehensive Oral health Assessment and Treatment (COHAT) as well as all of our services may be ineffective without the pet owner’s involvement. It is important that the pet owner has interest in their pets’ oral health. Regular teeth brushing are strongly recommended because it is a huge benefit for pets and it allows for close observation for oral problems.

By Hannah Serrano http://www.ArticleBlast.com Picture By Me

The act of giving chocolate is one way of showing how a person values or likes another person. It tastes good, and can be quite expensive; so giving somebody a pricey brand of the edible is in some way saying that you love that person. We, as pet owners, love our dogs. Showing that we love them is important; but giving them chocolate isn’t a good way of going about it. Feeding chocolate will make your dog sick. It contains theobromine, an ingredient that research and personal experience found to be poisonous to pooches. The gravity of effect on your pet will depend on how big it is, its age, and how sensitive it is to the intoxicating additive.

There exists a ratio of the theobromine consumption as compared to the animal’s weight. The ratio goes something like “grams per kilogram of dog’s weight”. But what’s important is that you need to know that it can have bad effects on any pet that has consumed a lot of chocolate, and in some cases lead to the death of your pet. The smaller the pooch, the heavier the damage. Same goes for old doggies and ones with weak immune systems. How will you know if it has eaten chocolate? Symptoms. If somethings makes a dog sick, there will be signs that will point out whatever is making it sick.

If your pet has consumed small amounts, it will have loose bowel movements, also known as diarrhea. Minimal consumption of the toxin won’t be much to worry about. But if it has eaten a lot it could be deadly. Aside from the first symptom stated above, it is possible for it to get a sugar rush. This means it will be very active and restless. Take note if there is a change in its “excitement behavior”. Once the body detects too much of something that shouldn’t be there it will do what’s needed to force it out. Another sign would be vomiting.

This is actually a good thing, because it expels some of the poison. The color of its vomit will be different from the average puke; so check it out. Look for traces of chocolates – an obvious sign would be shreds of a chocolate wrapper. When the intoxication has reached dangerous levels, it is possible for it to have seizures. If your pet displays any or all of the symptoms stated, then it’s best to bring it to a veterinarian for immediate treatment. We all care for our beloved animals; when somethings makes your dog sick, it should be dealt with in its early stages.

Negligence isn’t rewarded by something good, but by something bad. Avoiding the situation would be the best thing to do, because there isn’t a vaccine for chocolate. Hide chocolates in areas that a dog can’t get to. Don’t give this as treat for your pooch as a show of love; think of alternatives. If you see wrappers around the house with bite marks on it, chocolate smothered on your dog’s mouth, or detect a scent of sweetness in its breath, don’t hesitate to bring it to the vet for treatment.

By Alex De La Cruz | Picture By Me

After Economic times are tough, but that is no reason for your pet to look shabby. This article will show you how to groom your miniature schnauzer at home, without paying the outrageous prices of dog groomers.

 

Things You’ll Need
•Dog trimmers or regular hair trimmers
•Trimmer guards(optional)
•Scissors
•Blanket or floor covering
•Toe nail trimmers
•Bath tub
•Cup
•Shampoo
•Towels and wash cloth
•Dog brush and comb
•Anti-itch spray (optional)

Steps

1. Prepare the equipment you will need. The process will be much smoother if you are well prepared. Everything you need should be nearby.

2. Begin shearing the dog with a pair of groomers clippers. You use the clippers in the same way you would a lawn mower. Shave in the opposite direction of the hair growth. Do not change direction once you have begun. Trim all the way down to lower sides. It is up to you how thick you would like to make the skirt. The skirt is optional. Some people like to leave a short skirt that makes a straight line from the shoulder of the dog to the beginning of the back leg. I shave the thigh, tail, and bottom completely.

3. After you have completely trimmed the dog’s torso and bottom, it is time to shave the neck and head. Do this with the same technique you used for the body. Trim from the back of the neck to the eye brow. It may be necessary to hold the dogs head in place. It is important for the safety of the dog, that the head is kept still.

4. Once, the head is trimmed, you should trim the back of your pet’s ears. Hold the ear gently in your hand and gently go over it with the clippers. Then, take scissors and trim the outline of the dogs ears. Be careful to not cut the dogs ear. One method is to place my finger across my dog’s ears so it is impossible to cut her.

5. Once you have finished trimming the ears, you may move on to the dog’s face. Again, it is up to you how you trim the face. One method is to use scissors to trim the dog’s bangs. Then move to the area around her eyes. Be sure to shorten the hair around the dogs eyes for enhanced visibility. Next, trim the beard. The style is up to you, some people prefer longer beards, while others prefer shorter ones.

6. Next, trim the areas of the chest, skirt, and legs with scissors.

7. Now, you can trim your dog’s toe nails. One suggestion is to use a battery powered toe nail trimmer. This method is much easier and safer. You simply place the dog’s toe nail in the hole on the top of the trimmer, and hit the on switch. Then, remove the nail when you are satisfied with the length.

8. Next, it is time to bathe the dog. First, pour warm water over the entire body of the dog. Then apply shampoo. Lather, Rinse, and Repeat.

9. Dry the dog of with a towel. (Tasha prefers a towel warmed in the dryer.) Let the dog air dry or use a blow dryer on low.

10. And last, brush the dog with a soft bristled brush.

Tips

•It is important to bathe your dog immediately following the completion of the haircut. Schnauzers have very sensitive skin. The presence of the removed hair can irritate their skin.

•Use a shampoo for dogs that cleans, conditions, and is for dogs with sensitive skin.

•Apply anti-itch spray to dogs with sensitive skin, this can be helpful in the prevention of “hot-spots”

•Groom the dog on a surface that is easy to clean (Carpet is not a good choice)

•Make sure to rinse and dry the dog, thoroughly paying close attention to the ears (Schnauzers are prone to ear infections).

Warnings

•Be cautious when trimming around the dogs eyes and ears.

•This process should not be performed without adult supervision.

By Wikihow, Khyder19 | Picture By Me