In nature, many dogs eat when they get a meal – often a “kill” – which could be every day or every few days. We find that domestic dogs will often eat every other day – that is very common, particularly in larger breed dogs.

We find some breeds and dogs are even less consistent in their eating patterns as the summer approaches and the temperature gets warmer.

The question is, should you WORRY if your dog won’t eat.

The answer is – it depends.

If your dog doesn’t want to eat one meal but is otherwise drinking, acting playful, and having normal bowel movements and urination with no vomiting, then I probably would not worry. If your dog is lethargic, if his gums are pale, if he seems weak, is vomiting and/or has diarrhea, then I would worry. See your veterinarian.

By Dr Jon

Dental and oral problems are important to learn, to prevent and to cure. Dogs may not live to the fullest if there’s something that bothers on their mouth. Mouth and teeth diseases will also keep the dog owner from getting too close because of unpleasant odor. Proper hygiene and oral care is important, and it ensures our dog is healthy.

 
Tartar Build Up. The most common form of canine dental disease is tartar buildup. This causes irritation of the gums around the base of the teeth (gingivitis), resulting in exposure of the roots. Ultimately, this leads to infection and tooth loss. Infection will accumulate in the mouth, resulting in gingivitis, tonsillitis, and pharyngitis (sore throat). Infection within the mouth will be picked up by the blood stream and carried to other parts of the body. Kidney infections, as well as infections involving the heart valves, frequently begin in the mouth. One of the main factors determining the amount of tartar buildup is the individual chemistry in the mouth. Some dogs need yearly cleanings; other dogs need a cleaning only once every few years.

Bad Breath and Halitosis. Dog bad breath is a common problem that makes unpleasant situation for dog owners. Bad breath could keep from enjoyable playing and getting close with dogs which upsetting for the dog too. Dog halitosis bad breathe is a particularly foul and offensive odor coming from dog’s mouth. While it’s unpleasant, dog bad breath can also be a sign of a serious health problem like infection or any internal health issues that releases the foul odor. Furthermore symptoms like facial swelling, pawing at the mouth, sneezing, and nasal discharge can all be signs of mouth disorders. However, even if you only observe the foul odor, it’s still important to have your dog examined by a veterinarian so that the cause of your pet’s halitosis can be identified and treated, preventing continuation of the unpleasant odor as well as protecting your furry friend’s health and happiness.

Periodontitis or Periodontal Disease. Periodontitis is the inflammation of the structures that support teeth, the gum tissue, periodontal ligament, alveolus (small cavity) and cementum (bonelike connective tissue covering the root of a tooth and assisting in tooth support). It is one of the most common infectious diseases in the world in dogs and is caused by bacteria that make up plaque. ‘Periodontal’ comes from two Greek words that mean ‘around the tooth.’ Periodontal disease is a series of changes that are associated with the inflammation and loss of the deep supporting structures of teeth. Periodontal disease is inflammation of some or all of the tooth’s support structures (gingiva, cementum, periodontal ligament, and alveolar bone). When compared to gingivitis, periodontitis indicates bone loss. Periodontal disease is caused by bacteria. Initially a pellicle forms on the clean tooth. This pellicle attracts aerobic gram positive bacteria (mostly actinomyces and strepococci). Soon more bacteria adhere forming plaque. With in days the plaque thickens, underlying bacteria run out of oxygen and anaerobic motile rods and spirochetes begin to populate the sub gingival area. Endotoxins released by the anaerobic bacteria cause tissue destruction and bone loss. Small breed and brachycephalic dogs are at greater risk of periodontal disease because their teeth are often crowded together. This results in an increased accumulation of plaque because the normal cleansing mechanisms are hindered. If gingivitis is left untreated, it will progress to periodontal disease which is irreversible. Periodontal Therapy is one of the treatment that controls plaque.

Mouth Infections and Stomatitis. Infection or inflammation in the mouth – stomatitis – can be caused by cuts, burns, foreign bodies stuck in the mouth, and diseases of the gums and the structures that support the teeth (periodontal disease). Metabolic diseases such as kidney failure can also cause painful stomatitis. Stick are common and potentially serious, especially those in the back of the mouth. To treat stomatitis, the cause is addressed: physical injuries are treated, foreign objects are removed, dental conditions are corrected , and any underlying metabolic disorder are controlled to prevent recurrence. Secondary bacterial infection is common, so appropriate antibiotics are almost always used.

Foreign bodies in the mouth and throat. Dogs love to chew sticks, stones, bones and other hard materials but also potentially dangerous: sticks can cause damage to the mouth and can also crack teeth, especially molars. This may lead to tooth-pulp exposure and infection. Sticks can also lodge in the back of the throat, too far for easy removal with a spoon handle. A dog with something in its throat gags, paws anxiously at its mouth, and may drool or vomit. A foreign body in the throat may cause swelling that interferes with breathing. If the object blocks the voice box, the dog chokes and faints. Treat the dog immediately for choking. For severe cases, surgery is needed. Always supervise what the dogs chew, or rather give them balls and other chewing toys instead of sticks and other not safe to chew materials.

Dog Mouth Tumors. Tumors are uncommon but can occur on the gums, tongue or roof of mouth, or in the salivary glands. When possible they are surgically removed, followed by radiation therapy or chemotherapy.

Dog Oral Examination. The annual physical exam must include an oral exam to recognize problems with teeth, periodontal disease, and other oral diseases. The comprehensive oral exam begins by observing the face, recognizing that there are normal breed variations but carefully observing for abnormalities.

Diet and Chewing Behavior. Studies show that hard kibbles are slightly better than canned foods at keeping plaque from accumulating on the teeth. Dogs that chew on various toys or edible dental chews may remove some of the plaque build-up.

Home Care. The owner plays an important role in the oral health care for their companion animals. We consider the pet owner and the family veterinarian as key members of our dental health care team. Out Comprehensive Oral health Assessment and Treatment (COHAT) as well as all of our services may be ineffective without the pet owner’s involvement. It is important that the pet owner has interest in their pets’ oral health. Regular teeth brushing are strongly recommended because it is a huge benefit for pets and it allows for close observation for oral problems.

By Hannah Serrano http://www.ArticleBlast.com Picture By Me

There exists a ratio of the theobromine consumption as compared to the animal’s weight. The ratio goes something like “grams per kilogram of dog’s weight”. But what’s important is that you need to know that it can have bad effects on any pet that has consumed a lot of chocolate, and in some cases lead to the death of your pet. The smaller the pooch, the heavier the damage. Same goes for old doggies and ones with weak immune systems. How will you know if it has eaten chocolate? Symptoms. If somethings makes a dog sick, there will be signs that will point out whatever is making it sick.

If your pet has consumed small amounts, it will have loose bowel movements, also known as diarrhea. Minimal consumption of the toxin won’t be much to worry about. But if it has eaten a lot it could be deadly. Aside from the first symptom stated above, it is possible for it to get a sugar rush. This means it will be very active and restless. Take note if there is a change in its “excitement behavior”. Once the body detects too much of something that shouldn’t be there it will do what’s needed to force it out. Another sign would be vomiting.

This is actually a good thing, because it expels some of the poison. The color of its vomit will be different from the average puke; so check it out. Look for traces of chocolates – an obvious sign would be shreds of a chocolate wrapper. When the intoxication has reached dangerous levels, it is possible for it to have seizures. If your pet displays any or all of the symptoms stated, then it’s best to bring it to a veterinarian for immediate treatment. We all care for our beloved animals; when somethings makes your dog sick, it should be dealt with in its early stages.

Negligence isn’t rewarded by something good, but by something bad. Avoiding the situation would be the best thing to do, because there isn’t a vaccine for chocolate. Hide chocolates in areas that a dog can’t get to. Don’t give this as treat for your pooch as a show of love; think of alternatives. If you see wrappers around the house with bite marks on it, chocolate smothered on your dog’s mouth, or detect a scent of sweetness in its breath, don’t hesitate to bring it to the vet for treatment.

By Alex De La Cruz | Picture By Me

Things You’ll Need
•Dog trimmers or regular hair trimmers
•Trimmer guards(optional)
•Scissors
•Blanket or floor covering
•Toe nail trimmers
•Bath tub
•Cup
•Shampoo
•Towels and wash cloth
•Dog brush and comb
•Anti-itch spray (optional)

Steps

1. Prepare the equipment you will need. The process will be much smoother if you are well prepared. Everything you need should be nearby.

2. Begin shearing the dog with a pair of groomers clippers. You use the clippers in the same way you would a lawn mower. Shave in the opposite direction of the hair growth. Do not change direction once you have begun. Trim all the way down to lower sides. It is up to you how thick you would like to make the skirt. The skirt is optional. Some people like to leave a short skirt that makes a straight line from the shoulder of the dog to the beginning of the back leg. I shave the thigh, tail, and bottom completely.

3. After you have completely trimmed the dog’s torso and bottom, it is time to shave the neck and head. Do this with the same technique you used for the body. Trim from the back of the neck to the eye brow. It may be necessary to hold the dogs head in place. It is important for the safety of the dog, that the head is kept still.

4. Once, the head is trimmed, you should trim the back of your pet’s ears. Hold the ear gently in your hand and gently go over it with the clippers. Then, take scissors and trim the outline of the dogs ears. Be careful to not cut the dogs ear. One method is to place my finger across my dog’s ears so it is impossible to cut her.

5. Once you have finished trimming the ears, you may move on to the dog’s face. Again, it is up to you how you trim the face. One method is to use scissors to trim the dog’s bangs. Then move to the area around her eyes. Be sure to shorten the hair around the dogs eyes for enhanced visibility. Next, trim the beard. The style is up to you, some people prefer longer beards, while others prefer shorter ones.

6. Next, trim the areas of the chest, skirt, and legs with scissors.

7. Now, you can trim your dog’s toe nails. One suggestion is to use a battery powered toe nail trimmer. This method is much easier and safer. You simply place the dog’s toe nail in the hole on the top of the trimmer, and hit the on switch. Then, remove the nail when you are satisfied with the length.

8. Next, it is time to bathe the dog. First, pour warm water over the entire body of the dog. Then apply shampoo. Lather, Rinse, and Repeat.

9. Dry the dog of with a towel. (Tasha prefers a towel warmed in the dryer.) Let the dog air dry or use a blow dryer on low.

10. And last, brush the dog with a soft bristled brush.

Tips

•It is important to bathe your dog immediately following the completion of the haircut. Schnauzers have very sensitive skin. The presence of the removed hair can irritate their skin.

•Use a shampoo for dogs that cleans, conditions, and is for dogs with sensitive skin.

•Apply anti-itch spray to dogs with sensitive skin, this can be helpful in the prevention of “hot-spots”

•Groom the dog on a surface that is easy to clean (Carpet is not a good choice)

•Make sure to rinse and dry the dog, thoroughly paying close attention to the ears (Schnauzers are prone to ear infections).

Warnings

•Be cautious when trimming around the dogs eyes and ears.

•This process should not be performed without adult supervision.

By Wikihow, Khyder19 | Picture By Me

Steps

1.Collect the materials you will need so you will have everything close at hand. These materials generally include combs and brushes, pet shampoo, clean towels, and perhaps doggie treats. If you think about cleaning the dog’s ears, then getting some cotton balls would be a good idea.

2.Allow your dog time to adjust to the idea of getting a bath. If you have a puppy, or a new pet, the whole process may be somewhat frightening, so take things slowly. Help your dog to associate the tub or sink with pleasant things by placing the rubber mat in the tub and feeding meals there. Be ready to hand out lots of praise and a few treats to make the bath a pleasant experience for your dog. It will pay off in the long run if your pet is a happy participant, rather than frightened or resistant.

3.Groom your dog’s coat before bathing to remove loose dirt, mats and snarls. Tangles in your dog’s coat will be much harder to remove once his coat is wet. If you find yourself chopping away at matted fur – have them removed by a professional groomer the first time, then groom your pet more regularly to avoid matting in the future.

4.Decide whether you will bathe your dog in the bath tub or kitchen sink. This is not only a question of your dog’s size. It is also important to judge whether your dog is likely to remain calm and obedient during his bath. If there’s any chance he might jump away from you, you should bathe your dog in a bath tub, rather than risk a fall from the kitchen sink. Another option is to take your dog with you right into the shower. You will get wet anyway so why not kill two birds with one stone! Sounds silly but it works.

5.Place either a rubber mat or a small towel on the bottom of the sink or bath tub. This will keep your pet from slipping on the wet surface, and will help him feel more comfortable.

6.Test the water temperature before beginning to wet your dog’s coat. Keep your hand in the water to make sure the water temperature is correct. If you’re using the kitchen sink, the spray hose attachment makes it easy to wet your dog down. Sprayers emit a sound that affects some dogs so you may wish to have a small plastic pitcher handy to pour water over your dog. Spray attachments are also available for your bath tub to make bathing your dog easier.

7.Use a shampoo designed specifically for pets, rather than your own personal shampoo. Quality pet shampoos take into consideration that a dog’s skin has a different pH level than human skin. There are also tear-free shampoos that will not sting a dog’s eyes. (Keep in mind that just like human tear-free shampoos, they simply contain an eye-numbing agent, and the soap exposure can still damage the eyes. Keep all shampoo, tear-free or not, out of the eyes as much as possible.) A great smelling conditioner is also a nice addition. Consult your veterinarian if your dog has skin irritations or other conditions. Dilute the shampoo and apply from a squeeze bottle (like a dishwashing liquid) so you can squirt the shampoo wherever you wish.

8.Avoid getting water or shampoo in your pet’s eyes and ears. You can gently place a cotton ball in your pet’s ears to help keep the inner ear dry. Rather than using the spray hose on your pet’s face, your pet will be happier to have his face cleaned gently with a warm, wet wash cloth.

9.Rinse all shampoo out of your dog’s coat thoroughly.

10.Blot up the water left in his coat by wrapping your dog in a bath towel. Change towels as needed to continue drying your dog’s coat. Let his coat air dry once you have blotted up as much water as you reasonably can.

11.Blow-dry your dog’s coat to get your dog dry more quickly, if your pet will tolerate this. Always use a low-temperature setting (warm or cool) to avoid inadvertently burning your dog’s skin. Using a lower fan setting will undoubtedly be easier for your dog to endure. Some dog hair gets very static-y. There are sprays that limit this, help keep the hair smooth and easier to brush.

12.Praise your dog and give him a tasty treat as a reward for good behavior. He’ll quickly learn that getting a bath is not a frightening experience.

Tips

•Bath time is also a good time to examine your dog carefully for skin irritations, fleas and ticks,ear infections or other health concerns. It may be useful to trim his nails at the same time your bathe him. Metal nail files are good for skittish dogs and owners you can also use a battery powered nail file to make the process faster. Sometimes a groomer will let you watch the process and you may want to observe before you go at it yourself the first time.

•One thing that may prevent dogs from shaking is to hold their ear. This should only be done while taking them to a more shake-friendly place.

•If your dog tends to shake try placing one hand over the back of the neck when washing. This can stop the shake before it starts and keep you (and your bathroom) relatively dry.

•Some small dogs prefer placing their front paws on the edge of the bath away from you. My dog puts his paws up in the side of the tub facing the wall. It helps keep him calm and from that position he can’t jump out.

•It is very important to brush your dog after every bath so that their hair doesn’t get matted.

 

Warning

•Be careful not to get water in the small dog’s nose as they can choke very easily. Try covering its nose with the palm of your hand. Or, as mentioned above, use a wash cloth around his face, rather than spraying or pouring water over his head.

•Try not to bathe the dog too often as this may strip the dog of its natural oils causing its skin to dry out. Regular grooming and brushing will go a long way to keeping a dog healthy between baths.

•Do not bathe the dog with soap intended for humans. It can damage the dog’s skin by making it dry, forming flakes or creating chemical reactions. Remember human skin and the skin of a dog are not the same.

•Use warm water. If you must use cold water, use it slowly. Continuously running cold water might only be 60 degrees and a dog’s body cannot tolerate that much cold. If you dog is young, old, small, or has little fur or fat, use warm water! Imagine having someone run an equal amount of water over your body, at 60 degrees. If you weigh 120 and the puppy weighs 12, that would be 10 garden hoses worth of water being sprayed over your body, at 60 degrees. If it would continue, it would definately be uncomfortable, and could be fatal.

•Dry your small dog thoroughly and keep her sheltered until she is completely dry – small dogs can be vulnerable and catch a cold quite easily.

•Do not try to use your own shampoo for your dog. Although it might be safe to just wash the fur of certain long-haired dogs, it’s better to stay risk-free and use a dog shampoo. Tear-free will make the job easier.

By Wikihow, Lindsey | Picture By Me